Arriving from Piombino to Rio Marina by sea, you immediately realise that Elba is a Mediterranean jewel.
The small iron-coloured houses, piled one on top of the other above the port.
The port, the ancient walls that surround it, two breakwaters and four piers.
An old harbour, like all the ones on the island, spacious and open, the living, vibrant soul of the place
and not the pile of parking jetties that we unfortunately sometimes get used to when sailing in the western Mediterranean.
From Rio Marina to the south, passing through the large and deep gulf of Porto Azzurro, one understands the love of the islanders for their sea and for sailing.
You then reach the small medieval village of Capoliveri, the gateway to the wild cape formed by the slopes of Monte Calamita, where many nooks of paradise are hidden.
White and grey pebble beaches and turquoise waters hidden in the green of pine forests and steep maquis,
from Remaiolo to Punta Bianca passing by Punta Galera and Costa dei Gabbiani.
There is no time to climb here, the long sandy beach of the Gulf of Lacona is waiting for us,
with a bit of luck the Ginepro crag will not move.
A few kilometres further on, the pink granite on the sea of Fetovaia attracts us, the heat of the sunny cliff is extinguished by the fresh, salty water of the Mediterranean in October.
Circumnavigating Monte Capanne on the coastal road is a breathtaking sight at every turn.
Pomonte, Chiessi, Punta Nera, Patresi, Sant’Andrea and up to the ancient medieval town of Marciana.
A quick farewell passing by “elba arte naturale” where Agnese, whom we met on the cliffs of Fetovaia, explains us how avoiding going up the funicular pillars is, in fact, the best choice to reach the top of Capanne.
The morning fog deters us on the way up, but when we reach the summit, a providential clearing gives us a splendid view of this Mediterranean gem.
The next day, after talking to Renato about the crags he has bolted with passion on the island, we leave Elba from Portoferraio with full eyes and a little piece of heart less.
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